Caseophile

Grandpa Louis and cheese in 4D

Imagine my amazement on reading in a local business journal – le Mag'Eco – that €300,000 have been invested by a cheese dairy in Le Tholy (in the Vosges) to make a film in 4D (3D + olfactory effects) about its history. My congratulations.

And it's not the work of a major local cheese maker, but an initiative of a small farmhouse producer of Munster!!

Catherine and Bernard Louis decided to try something really new. Putting aside the idea of including nettles (yes, nettles, one of the favoured culinary ingredients of their part of the world), and forgetting about printed guides and mundane tours of their domain... it's all now about showing a 50 minute film in four dimensions, called "Au temps de Papy Louis" (In the days of Grandpa Louis), all about the everyday life of the peasants of the Vosges.

I find it a very original idea, and good sense. Cheese is a lot about that 4^th dimension! So if you are anywhere near Le Tholy and can get to see (and hear and smell!) the show, do tell me about it.

Cheese activity in the Gorges du Tarn – 50 years on…

The Fromagerie des Gorges du Tarn was the first cheese operation to set up in Onet le Château, a commune close to Rodez, half a century ago. We are in the heart of France, in the Aveyron department, just below the Lot and the Cantal.

When you talk about this splendid spot, the first cheese you think of is Roquefort, but you cannot overlook the champion of cheeses made with cows' milk – Le Bleu des Causses.

Most of this is made in Onet and sent to mature in the natural caverns at the start of the Gorges du Tarn. Just make a stop at Peyrelade the next time you feel like going across the Millau viaduct! Not only will you get another perspective across that artistic work of engineering, but you could discover a cheese which could die out if we're not too careful in looking after it. In the 80s and 90s they made around 2000 tonnes a year... these days it's 650. Does that worry you? It does me.

But let's come back to the cheese company in Rodez, which locals often refer to as "Valmont".

I know the place well, having worked there for 4 years ... quite a unique spot these days of specialisation, as here they make:

- UHT milk in cartons

- Cream

- Powdered milk (and whey)

- Fresh pasta (that well-known Rondelé)

- Blue cheese (Bleu des Causses, as we've just said)

- Extra hard pasta (sold principally in Southern Italy!)

Their director is therefore very ... eclectic – wouldn't you say? Well, no – that's not the best description – let's call him a generalist of milk and its derivatives. I read with pleasure that he has not moved on since my departure about 12 years ago, ample proof of his ability to manage such diversity.

Bonne continuation! As we would say to all concerned.... and if you want to visit the maturing caves of Bleu des Causses, you'll have to go to Peyrelade, a tiny villageat the beginning of the Tarn Valley

 

A great man has said goodbye...

And one with a capital "M". With much sadness I have learnt that Monsieur Joseph Roustang passed away a month ago at the start of his 96 years.

A great man, in every sense of the word. Firstly by his stature, then his knowledge and his professional skills. Finally his ease of contact, the depth of his thoughts, the way he put care for human beings at the heart of his concerns.

Born to a great cheese producing family from the Meuse region in NE France, he loved chatting about the history of our department. He had taken the decision not to hand over the heavy (too heavy, he would say) burden to inherit a family business. So he got close to Nestlé who wished to enter the cheese market in France, then faced with the difficulties that the company in Vevey was experiencing, he got in touch with another "great man": Michel Besnier, which led in 1985 to the merger between Claudel Roustang into the Besnier group, later to become Lactalis.

So many women and men from the world of cheese will be saddened by his departure to the "Other Side", as although he was less active in recent years, we knew we could always count on his memory, his advice, his warmth... The last chat I had with him was about le Carré de l'Est from the small cheese maker of Void from its beginnings in the 19^th century to the size of the business today.

God bless you, dear friend. I know you will continue to watch over our cheese activity from high above.

MOF fromages 2011 - the best cheese “affineurs” and sellers in France

This past week the terrible suspense is over and the winners of this year's Meilleurs Ouvriers fromages (the Best Cheesesellers) have been announced. The result of 3 nerve-shattering months' suspense, the agony of the last two tests – a blind tasting session and a tough oral, which took place at the Lycée Hôtelier of Chamalières, near Clermont Ferrand.

The members of the jury had a list of 9 boxes and 9 numbers to appraise each of the candidates.

And having reviewed the score table, they decided that 4 competitors led the pack, anonymity was set aside and the result was announced.

The 4 new MOF fromages who join the 16 already appointed are (in alphabetical order)

• Dominique Bouchait (from Montréjeau)
• François Bourgon (from Toulouse)
• Pierre Gay (from Annecy)
• François Robin (from Paris)

The 5 finalists who were eliminated were however not without merit! The scores were very close and their great disappointment was clear. Let me share with you what I said to them: when you have a red, white and blue decoration around your collar, you get a lot of "friends" – good ones and bad. They will know today who are their true friends... those who will carry on looking them up... And it's not because they did not win one of these famous collars that their produce has become mediocre, nor their cheeses poor...

In fact, give a thought for these good folk who today or tomorrow find themselves in front of their customers and are likely to be asked a thousand times: "so, how did you get on?"

Christelle, Jean-Charles, Vincent, Marc, Théophane ... your good friends give you a warm hug!

Dominique, Pierre, François and François ... bravo to you all, and may you proudly exercise your profession.

Meet the Queen of Cheese for 40 years!

Her store is on the rue de Grenelle in the 7^th arrondissement of Paris, near the boulevard St Germain. Her name is Nicole Barthélémy and she has seen 40 years fly by in her little boutique at number 51.

Her local reputation is as the "white wolf" – a quaint French expression for somebody "whom everybody knows". If you are out with her, you don't get far before she is greeted and given a hug.

I was always in wonder at how she could stock such a wide range of cheeses (over 200, I'm sure) in such a small outlet and especially by the choreography of the assistants as they passed around serving her customers.

One of my friends who lives not far from the shop, told me recently about the splendid smells which wafted out of the building when she was a girl and which to this day make her want to buy some good cheese.

So, believe me, that's why so many personalities – including those from the Elysée palace – go shopping chez Nicole. Cheeses with "character", patiently matured. That's why, Nicole, you haven't seen time pass! 40 years seeking out producers, watching over your "recruits" in those cellars, talking passionately with your customers ... with no wrinkles, and a stock of memories which you should put down in writing.

Happy anniversary!

And I've borrowed a photo here from a milk products website with an article about milk products from a woman's viewpoint (in French)

So what a splendid place to stock up with a range of our best "fromages" on your next trip to la Ville Lumière!

Public selection of the future MOF (Best Cheese affineur and sellers of France)

These pictures were taken on Feb. 22nd.

Although the second part of the finals in the French cheese masters’ contest will not be announced until May 16^th in Clermont Ferrand, at the same time as the whole of the contest, the organisers decided that the public display of their entries would take place at the recent Salon de l’Agriculture in Paris.

Here therefore are the exhibits of the 9 candidates (one woman and 8 men) selected to take part last October. A spectacular display of presentations on the theme “Cheeses from here and there, both modern and traditional”... I decided on purpose not to give the names of each participant here, but simply to show each "master pieceé and their presentation of a plate of 5 PDO cheeses from the Auvergne in their numerical order:

    

Next International Caseus Awards 2013 selection was in Lyon in January

The selection process to pick the French candidate in the International Caseus Awards, to take place in two years time in Lyon, took recently in Lyon. Here are the productions which were entered, though the "cheese platter" presentations are only one part of the competition.

Firstly the winner's tableau – from Jean-Charles Ouvrard... hoping I've not forgotten some of the others!

And in no particular order the others....

Great photos of the test products of future MOFs (cheese masters)

Now a list of the chosen finalists in the French master cheese makers' qualification trials:

Dominique BOUCHAIT, Montrejeau (31)
François BOURGON, Toulouse (31)
Pierre GAY, Annecy (74)
Marc JANIN, Champagnol (39)
Jean-Charles KARMANN, Versailles (78)
Christelle LORHO, Strasbourg (67)
Théophane MICHEL, Paris (75)
François ROBIN, Paris (75)
Vincent VERGNE, Nîmes (30)

A very high professional level this year. For a glimpse of their work, just visit this website:

http://a.goulard.online.fr/MOF2010/

Not my photos in fact, but some which clearly show you the ambiance in the examination hall.

And I'd just also like to congratulate the unsuccessful candidates also for all their efforts. Standards were exceedingly high. Many know that it can be hard to succeed the first time around and that the stress of the contest can cause some - unconsciously - to make mistakes. But you must hang on in there, especially when you are young!

First pictures of the latest exams of the Maîtres Ouvriers de France in cheese

It took place a week ago in Rungis market near Paris... there were 27 candidates but only 20 had the courage to confront the inspection of a jury under the masterly control of Marie Quatrehomme, assisted by a small committee of MOFs and cheese professionals (both cheese makers and traders)

I've no time at present to go into detail, that's for sometime soon, but here are some pictures of the fantastic products of these competitors.

From France - A new type of cheese shop soon in London

Pascal Beillevaire, a cheese merchant from Nantes, who started his business in the production and sale of cheese thirty years ago, is poised to launch a new type of retail outfit on a European basis, starting in London.

The business journal La Tribune announced a couple of weeks ago his bid to modernise the way we all consume cheese, appointing his 26 year old son Fabrice, to "dust down" and develop the concept. He has come across the Channel to look at launching a new generation of boutiques selling Bellevaire cheeses and other related products – gratins, tartiflettes, sandwiches, salads for eating on the spot or as a take away. The first outlet (a €150,000 investment) is planned to be opened in London before the year end – which, if successful, could grow to around 10 stores. And which could lead to a new generation of shops in France and other European capitals.

However production (cheese, yoghourts, butter, cream etc.) will stay in France – in Machecoul, south of Nantes, the company HQ. Beillevaire has 35 outlets currently in France –half are their own stores but they also sell in markets.

Clearly an innovative and promising development for caseophiles in Britain. We wish them well.

The best cheese in the world comes from Provence?

Not from the south of France in fact, but from a charming little town in the Vaud canton of Switzerland called ... Provence. A story in the Swiss newspaper – 24 Heures.

And it's quite a provocative heading to give to an article in this blog – especially since the cheese producer himself (Cédric Fragnière) had no idea he was taking part in this international competition (to which I am invited to go as a jury member every year on condition that I pay my own fare to ...Wisconsin!)

Well I've not gone there so far, but I did happen to meet the American organiser several years back in Switzerland. He's quite a fan of Swiss cheese.

It is in fact a very classical competition, but with 80 categories, over 2,300 cheeses and a "Best of Show Honors" medal. This year a Swiss cheese maker won it again. But what a surprise I had on reading on the American organisation website that the winner in fact was another Cédric – Cédric Vuille from the Fromagerie de la Brevine (in the Neuchatel canton) for his Gruyere = Champion Round - Score 98.79 – according to a report which appeared on the Interprofession du Gruyere website.

I'm all a bit lost - so let's just say that yet again this year, the best cheese in the world according to the Americans is ... Swiss!

Monks business

Just before Christmas, there was a half-hour programme on French television (TF1 Reportages) all about how Cistercian monks are involved in business. The motto of these monks is "ora et labora" … i.e. prayer comes before work, meaning that this activity should never become a priority but should solely serve to help the community to make a living and maintain their property.

So here are some pictures from this magnificent documentary produced (and edited) with mastery by a young and talented journalist: Lucile Bellanger. A name to remember, believe me… as she knew perfectly well how to convey the reasons why the monks are both cut off from and yet part of this world of ours and they know how to get expert help from outside … and that includes from me (and my thanks go to Brother Nathanael – a very talented pupil!!)

Look in at St Malo

I was there at the end of July and didn’t it rain! But we need rain, of course, for the grass to grow and the cows to tuck in and give us good butter. So let’s go inside to see how Jean-Yves Bordier is preparing that butter. On the youtube website you can see him at it. (Thanks to my friend Pat who told me about it!). Have a look now.

The Louis Pasteur Trophy for innovation in healthy eating

The daughter of one of my friends drew my attention to this trophy when she spoke about a drink containing mare’s milk. This milk, as I have already said, is never turned into cheese by itself – but only in combination with other types of milk.

But let’s come to the Louis Pasteur Trophy which rewards innovative food products created by students based on three main criteria:

-       it is innovative - both technologically and in its formulation - compared with existing products on the market.

-       it is aimed at human consumption and therefore conforms to current legislation

-       it can be produced on an industrial basis

       More info about this trophy can be found on the INRA (National Institute for Agricultural Research) website.

       Here are the three projects judged to be the most innovative by the jury of experts.

 Cheese category: Magélice, presented by Sandra CARBALLIDO and Aurélie PERRIN from    “Les Sardières” agricultural high school in Bourg en Bresse. It is a soft cheese in a tube with added condiments and fruits. As for savoury versions: these are tomato, tapenade and spices and for sweet ones: figs and quinces. Their main innovations concern the type of packaging and the distinctive aromatic versions presented.

 Drinks category: Crazy Mare, a lightly alcoholic drink based on mare’s milk, flavoured with cranberries from Anne Smigielski and Coline Jarrot from the ENIL school in Mamirolle.

Food Products category: Fruity’mix, presented by Magali BOHRER and Marine PIEROT students in Master1 of the UFR PEPS Colmar school of the Haute Alsace University. The product was developed in collaboration with the food workshop of the agricultural high school of Pflixbourg in Wintzenheim. Fruity’mix is a preparation based on buttermilk and a compote of fruits. Three flavours were featured: mango and coconut, red fruits and bananas, apples+pears+ cinnamon.

Well, just let me add a fourth competition entry out of pure Alsatian chauvinism: “Bi-goût” a drink consisting of apple juice and beads of sodium alginate flavoured with syrup, dreamed up by Marie Sonet, Igor Martin, Tiphanie Lavechin and Eudes Jeannesson of the agricultural high school of Bar le Duc which won second prize in the”drinks” category.

Bravo to all the contestants and congratulations to the individual winners!

Have a look at some fine photos of cheese production

A good friend has told me about the website of a photographer with an interesting way of looking at things and especially at cheese: this is Grégoire Voevodsky

I've not yet had the pleasure of meeting him, but I trust I will do before long, as I've rarely seen pictures like his! To all my colleagues in the cheese world, this man can take some superb pictures…

Look at his site: http://www.voevodsky.net

Introducing the cheese making monks of Belloc

They say "ardi gasna" in Basque… ewe's cheese...

And the Benedictine monks of Belloc are to be found deep in the heart of the Basque country, not far from Hasparren.

Here are a few photos taken of their cellars but the best thing is to go there and sample their cheeses!

More info on this Benedictine community on their website: www.belloc-urt.org (It's in French but it's a very attractive site with the possibility of contacting them)

In fact, why not decide to stay there several days and discover the rhythm of a monastery and understand their motto: "Ora et labora"?

Guests are received in an adjoining building and their religious services take place in a modern church, a little "underground" … so it's cool in the summer.

A dream come true – to sell cheese

It was always the dream of Sylvie Ricard, who was approaching 40 and had worked for some 12 years in the insurance business, to go from statistical pie charts to the world of cheese – in fact an ambition she had held since childhood.

But at the age of 19, she went into office design and then into insurance marketing. But the "cheese" itch was always there.

But how to get in when you are on the outside? Quite a challenge! But she contacted the National Federation of Milk Product Retailers, studied for various professional qualifications, worked in several dairy product outlets, including with Gérard Petit in the market at Maisons-Laffitte and Poissy, with Michel Fouchereau (Meilleur Ouvrier de France), Marie Quatrehomme (MOF2000) and then with Fil'O Fromage in rue Neuve Tolbiac in Paris, where she met her future associate – another Sylvie – Sylvie Guillot.

A very complementary tandem – Sylvie Guillot knows all the twists and turns of selling cheese, Sylvie Ricard looks after the daily business side of the store. They began by looking for the ideal place to make their dream come true: to create a friendly place for selling cheese and wine with on the spot tasting. In October 2006, they opened "La Voie Lactée" (The Milky Way) in the centre of Colombes. An address quickly discovered by the locals where they come to sample its delights, on the terrace … or inside!

It's at 3 place Maurice Chavany – 92700 Colombes – tel: 01 47 82 92 95

To know more (in French) about training to join the milk and cheese profession, visit the site www.fromagersdefrance.com

The Cheese Box (la boîte à fromage) – Isches in the Vosges (88)

Here I am launching a new feature in this blog all about worthy "cheese people", in which I will highlight those who are not really in the spotlight, but who are behind the cheeses and drinks I talk about.

So to begin, let's put a spotlight on a young couple of cheese makers based in Isches in the Vosges in Eastern France – Ludivine and Mickaël Grethen who produce raw milk cheeses, soft cheeses and also hard and semi-hard cheeses.

Look in at their website and you will understand why you need plenty of energy to launch into the cheese business! The work they have undertaken during 2008 is impressive.

All good luck to them.