All about Neufchâtel

One of my faithful readers, Ludovic, based in the UK complained that I never talk about Neufchâtel cheese. So to give him pleasure, here’s a rundown on this attractive Normandy cheese  (no need to call it “good cheese” – that goes without saying, don’t you think?)

 

You can get full information on the Neufchâtel website, or that for French PDO :

AOC since                1969 then 1977

Origin                     Pays du Bray area in Seine-Maritime department

Presentation            6 different shapes: Bonde (plug shape), double bonde, small brick, square, heart and double heart

Weight                       100g / 200g / 600g

Maturing period       - young: 10 days - semi mature: 3 weeks - mature: from 1-3 months depending on size

Annual Production :  1,600 tonnes, 23 farms / 4 artisanal production units

 

A little history..

Have you ever been to the Bray area in North-West France? It’s a narrow plain, well sheltered from winds coming from the sea and inland, set deeply down in the cliffs … an attractive Normandy landscape, with its pattern of small fields enclosed by hedges planted on mounds, protecting them from the wind and a habitat for birds…

The origins of Neufchâtel cheese go back to the 11^th century: in 1035 then Abbey of Sigy was given the right to levy the “dime des frometons”, a tax to be paid by the peasants of the valley of Bray engaged in the trade of their cheese and their reputation never stopped growing! These “frometons” were also called at the time “bondons” or “angelots” …

It is said that the heart shape was much used by the girls in that part of the world, keen on fraternising with the English invaders during the Hundred Year Wars (i.e. in the 14th century). But one has to wait until the 16th century before the name Neufchâtel was being used in the accounts of the Abbey of St Amand in Rouen.

A rare fact that is worth repeating is that when in the 19^th century production had become more established, a farmer called Isodore Lefebvre had the idea of collecting from his neighbours milk that had already been transformed to pour into moulds on his farm and let mature in his cellar at Nesle Hodeng: thus the profession covering cattle grazing, milk production and cheese maturing all together was born!

 

The production of Neufchâtel

Neufchâtel is a very special soft cheese:

In contrast to other cheeses from its area, the curdling process is lactic: very little rennet and a lot of starter cultures are added at the same time and the process is very slow, taking from 24 to 36 hours!

The curds are then drained – this can last a good twelve hours. Several techniques are used to separate the cheese from the whey. The curds can for example be poured into hanging bags..

The cheese is then covered and pressed by weights placed on top for 6-12 hours.

Another thing peculiar to Neufchâtel. The inclusion of penicillium (blue mould) can be undertaken into the milk and/or at the time of mixing: cheese heavy in mould is also added to incorporate penicillium into the mix (they call this “vaccinating” the cheese).

 

Then the cheese is mixed for several minutes to give it an even consistency, make it easier to shape, less crumbly, then it is put into a mould - which is also called a “gaille” - in the desired shape (6 shapes are permitted). Small producers tend to do this by hand: others use shapes identical to those used by bakers.

 

Quite often, salting is done with dry salt, into the heart of the curds, like with Cantal… which enhances the development of penicillium… but can also lead to a stronger salty taste.

Finally comes the drying room phase, in very damp cellars which make the cheese begin to dry out and develop “penicillium” and then in a “sécherie” for further drying of those intended to be more mature.

Did you know?

 -       30% of the cheese is produced on the farm and 80% of Neufchâtel is made with raw milk.

 

My advice: choose, keep, cut, taste…

 -       The rind is mouldy – white or golden/ivory coloured for the oldest cheeses. The cheese itself is cream coloured with a firm heart at the beginning through to very soft for the oldest.

 

As for me, I’ve had the opportunity to sample Neufchatel cheeses often sold in the market in Rouen and I like this cheese best when it is very mature, with a rind just turning yellow, lightly covered in cracks, and there’s the possibility of softening the taste with some butter (from Normandy of course).

 

        - Try the sweet and sour test by accompanying a very sweet cider with a youngish Neufchâtel.

 -       Or why not a sweet white wine, like a Côtes de Bergerac or a Coteaux du Layon?

 However with a “double heart” cheese …one so mature it has in fact lost its heart, a fairly heavy red wine is necessary to challenge the strength of the cheese.

I recall a first rate tasting session of a big hearted cheese together with a Cahors wine … a real feast, but as always in great moderation!

 

- And never forget that Neufchâtel is the basic ingredient of a sauce that goes marvellously well with both meat and fish. Simple to make: take the juices from a meat or fish dish, some Normandy cream and a Neufchâtel without its rind.